About Monkeys, Peace and Aggression

World-renowned primatologist and ethologist Frans de Waal talks in his book “Our Inner Ape” about an experiment in which physically bigger, but peaceful type of monkeys were housed together with  smaller, but cantankerous and more aggressive monkeys – all of them juveniles. When the aggressive ones started a fight, the peaceful ones simply ignored them. Completely! They didn’t even look in their direction. Obviously, the physically stronger, peaceful monkeys had no need to attest their strength exactly because they were more powerful; their own safety was not in jeopardy.
The monkeys stayed together for five months, and there was rarely a physical confrontation: all, especially toward the end of the experiment, lived harmoniously with each other. Not only that, but when they were separated, the inherently aggressive monkeys continued to be more peaceful. Peacefulness, it seems, can be learned.
Genetically programed means that there is a higher or lower propensity for a behavior, but for it to occur it needs the corresponding environment. With these cranky monkeys, when aggression was not reinforced, and when they observed peacefulness in cohabitating animals that could clean their clocks if they wanted to, the aggressive propensity did not find the corresponding environment, and thus their behavior – lastingly - changed.
In our relationship with dogs, we are the more powerful species, like the bigger and stronger monkeys were. That makes us the ones in charge, the only ones who can set the stage, the corresponding environment, that allows dogs to acquire the social skills we are wanting.
I don’t believe in aggressive breeds, but also not that every dog, or breed, is a genetically clean slate. Selective breeding happens for a reason or it wouldn’t happen: humans aim and breed for certain traits, and although using the mouth is natural for all dogs, some are more active, determined and ready to aggress when pressured. A dog hardwired to overtly act more than retreat will live out those tendencies in an environment that is charged up and aggressive - that is where his nature finds fertile ground to be expressed; the predisposition to become a behavior.
Especially with these dogs it is crucial that we counter that by providing a peaceful environment, by addressing their aggression issues in non-aggressive ways, and also, while not ignoring that a problem exists, by not giving the aggressive expressions that much attention.

Here is another interesting monkey story that has to do with peace and aggression.
Stanford University Professor Robert Sapolsky studied baboons over several decades. Baboons, unlike dogs, are very hierarchical and there is a lot of pressure and bullying happening from the top down. Consequently, there is a lot of stress in the underlings, measured in the glucocorticoid levels in their urine output.
At one time, a particular colony Sapolsky observed lost about half their members when they consumed contaminated meat. None of the ruling alphas survived, and my guess is because as alphas they had priority resource access and were brutish food hoggers at the expense of low-ranking baboons who lost out on the feast.
In any case, suddenly the colony was without leaders, and interestingly the troop didn’t fall apart, but rather the aggression level dropped, and the affiliate social level rose. The whole colony thrived, and again it was lasting: After 20 years without alphas the baboons in that colony were still friendly and non-aggressive with one another, with each individual having some control, each one flourishing, contributing and cooperating with everyone else.

In 2013, I will continue to take lessons learned from dogs and people, and perhaps monkeys, to heart.
In 2013, I will continue to share with you what I know, and hopefully help more humans and their canine companions to a flourishing and harmonious coexistence.
I am wishing you, and your dogs, a healthy, happy and prosperous 2013 – and that you experience only peaceful hairless apes this year.

Dog Ads Online! Reading Between the Lines

It is almost Christmas, and like every year, I am sure, some folk will scramble for the memorable present that impresses the kids or the girlfriend, and what better way to do that than with a furry bundle of pup? Luckily, dog shopping is really easy in North America. Go online, be bombarded with ad after ad, fall in love with the cutest ever face, hand over the money, and done.
You might have guessed by my tone that I am sour about dogs advertised and sold online – and yet, a few months ago, in an attempt to procrastinate a lengthy report I had to write, I clicked on Kijiji. The dog section. Worse yet, a pup caught my eye in a big way: An Australian shepherd who looked so much like our Davie who died almost two years ago and we’re still missing. Worse yet, I promptly inquired with the seller and was ready to travel 400 km to meet the pup, but she was already sold.
Once the disappointment dissipated, disbelieve set in that I, who has an insight scoop how dogs suffer when they are bred, raised and placed without conscience, was receptive to that. And I came to understand that if I am, how much more susceptible laypeople are. People who fall for ads and think that just because someone breeds dogs that they care about dogs.
I like to believe that had I been able to meet that Aussie pup, I would have had enough sense to walk away if there were any red flags. Most people though, once they answered an ad, once they are at the breeder, once the see the puppy or dog, don’t walk away. They don’t recognize red flags, and even if they do find it difficult to leave without the pooch in tow, wanting to rescue him out of the situation he is in.
It is understandable and yes, kind humans make life better for that one dog, but what they are also doing is to enable a for-profit business to pump out more puppies, and the suffering continues.
Because we have lousy animal welfare laws, the best way to ease suffering is through the pocket book. If the masses would recognize red flags and shop elsewhere, the unscrupulous breeders’ source of income would dry up.
I know what to look for; most laypeople don’t. Thus, I went online again, this time to point out obvious, and not so obvious, red flags.
I googled several Canadian provinces, and found similar ads everywhere. The ones below are authentic: copied and pasted as listed, but I did remove the sellers’ personal info.
Here we go:

“Our much anticipated goldens, buffs, blk/tan and chocolate cocker spaniel puppies have arrived. Our cockers are only bred once a year to ensure dams and pups are in optimum health and temperment. These family raised dogs have been proven great temperment family dogs that love kids, cats and other dogs. Parents are on site. Pups will be Vet checked, dewormed, immunized (1st needle)and have thier own puppy pack and photo album inclulding pictures of parents and grandparents. Puppies will be ready to go November 26, 2012, an early Christmas Present!
A $200.00 deposit is required to hold your puppy. Serious enquires, thank you.”
Red flags:
There were 15 puppies in total from two litters, and that doesn’t sound too bad, does it? Except – I found another ad worded almost the same way with the same spelling mistakes, and listed on the same date, and it announced 11 puppies. Same person? If yes, we are talking 26 puppies and that are too many dogs.
The pups are advertised as purebreds, but it doesn’t make a reference if they are registered – a requirement in Canada. Dogs advertised as purebreds must be registerable.
The birth/when ready dates also raised my eyebrows: The ad gives one birth date - were both litters born on the same day? Or is one litter younger? To the best of my knowledge, Kijiji pulls ads when pups are sold too young, but some breeders cleverly circumvent that by advertising the older litter, and when the potential buyer shows up all those pups “have just been sold”, and they push the younger ones before they should be leaving their mom and littermates.
I also don’t like the reference to Christmas. Life animals should never be advertised as Christmas presents.
Compare it with this ad and you’ll see what I am talking about:
“Beautiful Registered Purebred Chihuahua Puppies.
The estimated adult weighs for these puppies is between 3.0 to 5.0 pounds full grown.
All pics are taken close up, zommed in and cropped, they really are tiny.
Both parents are Registered Purebred Chihuahuas and are on site to meet you.
Litter #1 Born October 5 2012... They will be ready to go to their new homes on Novermber 30 2012.
Pic #1 -- Male Puppy **SOLD**
Pic #2 -- Female #3
Pic #3 -- Female #2
Pic #4 -- Female #1
Pic #5 -- Female #4 **SOLD**
Litter #2 Born October 12 2012... will be ready to go their new homes on December 7 2012.
Pic #6 -- Male#1 White Male with Blue Eyes
Pic #7 -- Male #2 Blue Male with Blue Eyes.
Pic #8 -- Female
They come with:
Veterinary exam and health records
1st set of shots
3X deworming
One Year Written Health Guarantee
Registration
And a gift bag full of things you will need to get you and your puppy started at home."

Here is an ad that looks to rehome an adult dog: “Female dog for sale. Very well trained. She is an excellent gaurd dog and I do not want to part with her but I am pregnant and she should NOT be around small children. She is very faithfull and needs lots of attention and exercise. Only serious inquiries please.”
Big red flag: “NOT be around small children”. Unless someone lives insulated from people, there is always a chance that a dog will meet small children. That’s how the human race keeps it going. This dog should not be sold on Kjiji, but evaluated by an expert and adopted to an experienced home who knows how to work with those issues – and knows how to manage the dog properly. A few days ago, another incident of a child bitten in the face made the news here, and although I don't know the details in that case, ads like that are part of the problem: someone with minimal dog experience and knowledge might read “very well trained”, and expect exactly that.
Other red flags:
“Excellent guard dog” – or potential liability?
“Faithful”  - or protective?
“Needs lots of attention and exercise” - what does the dog do when she doesn’t get it?
As a general rule, I wish laypeople would consult with a professional before they acquire an adult dog they spot online. I know, there are great dogs and people out there, but owners, even if they are honest about the dog’s issues and quirks like this one absolutely appears to be, rarely comprehend the full magnitude and are typically also not experienced in selecting an appropriate new home. Furthermore, nothing more than handing money over is required of a dog owner in our lands.
For profit breeders don’t care where their pups are placed.
Layowners often do care, but don’t have the necessary skill.
It is the dog that suffers most when placed in the wrong home, and some go through several before they end up in rescue, or are euthanized.

A statement I found in many ads: “Loves kids, dogs and cats.” Yes, some breeds are more or less predisposed to like people, be tolerant of small hands, and cohabitate peacefully with other dogs, but no breed is genetically programmed to love all other beings automatically and without work put in by breeder and owner.
There are exceptions, but most 8-week-old puppies don’t have the guts to object aggressively to handling or attack the adult dog next door, but there is no guaranty that it will be so when he is 8 months old.

Here are more concrete ads:
“Please to announce our newest litter of Comfort Retrievers.
Males and Females Available
Last 4 pictures are a few of our Grown Comfort Retrievers
This is a breed (cross between a Golden Retriever and Cocker Spaniel) that we decided to try about 4 years ago. We loved the Golden Retriever but wanted something a bit smaller. We attempted to breed resulting in a 40-50 lb Golden Retriever looking family pet. Our goal is to achieve a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever Size.
Our Comfort Retrievers have the temperament and disposition of the Golden Retriever.  We have not received any feedback on Health Concerns - they tend to be a very healthy Pet. They LOVE the water.
Our newest available litter of Comfort Retrievers were born September 24th and will be ready for rehoming between November 12th and 19th. In this litter we have 4 girls and 5 boys available. We already have a small waiting list for this litter but still room to add on.”
There are no huge red flags, other than backyard breeding, and I hope they don’t charge pure breed prices for a mutt by design. Just to be clear, I have nothing against backyard breeders or mixed breed dogs - I live with the most wonderful one since more than a decade. What I don't like are amateurs putting a steep price tag on their special creations.
"Tend to be healthy" is a bit ambiguous. Are they, or aren’t they? Before the breeders continue breeding, they should make sure they are.
The ad claims that the dogs have the disposition of a golden retriever. Genetics taught us that offspring has the DNA of both parents. Chances are that sooner or later there will be some cocker disposition creeping in. Not that that’s a bad thing, but it should be mentioned in the ad, because golden people will expect a small golden.
For comparison a springer spaniel ad:
“SPCA inspected/approved. CKC Permanent registered kennels and award winning breeders of 30 years .Pups are extensively socialized, immunized, hunting/field training started,home raised and come with 8 year health guarantees against hereditary diseases.Also, pups are lovingly and humanely raised with tails/dewclaws left intact. Parents are CKC CHAMPIONS, OFA,CERF clear and DNA tested for serious eye problems. Parents and some grandparents are available to meet. References available. Note: pups are offered for sale to approved homes only; interview, home visit and references requested. Litters due early November and will be available for homing for the end of January 2013. Show breeding stock from either litter price may be available ; breeders will provide mentorship and guidance with purchase of this quality of puppy. Reduced price to homes on fixed incomes or to hunting/working and animal therapy placements.”
See the difference? And pay attention to the pups staying with the breeder for 10-12 weeks. I also liked that there are grandparents on sight - a sign that they don't get rid of older dogs that are not monetarily useful any longer.
My hunch is that these breeders make good money, and deservedly so, because they obviously prioritize the dogs’ welfare.

Check this one out:
 “We are proudly the FIRST breeder to be certified by the Humane Society for ethical breeding practices! You can see the certification badge on our website, and please think twice about purchasing from non-certified breeders!
We breed quality CKC Registered Labrador Retriever puppies and match them with good homes and families. We are committed to the welfare of our labs, and place an emphasis on responsible breeding practices.
Each lab puppy comes with:
5 Year / LIFETIME Genetic Warranty,
LIFETIME Breeder Support, and
LIFETIME Return Policy.
- This ensures you are happy and secure in the decision to purchase your next family member, and guarantees both us and you that none of the dogs we produce will end up in an animal shelter.
- All our breeding dogs are screened for 8 different genetic health problems (Hips, Elbows, Eyes, Cardiac, PRA, EIC, CNM, DM). Please read the "Genetic Health 101" page of our website for more information.
- All pups go home at 8 weeks of age. They have basic housetraining, and are microchipped, dewormed four times, and have their first TWO sets of vaccinations. This saves you an expensive vet visit, and ensures the immunity of your puppy when you take it home. Six weeks of free pet insurance is also included. All these details ensure you are delivered a healthy puppy, as we endeavour to minimize visits to the vet over the lifetime of your companion.
- We have an open kennel policy, so upon visiting us, you will be given a full tour and get to meet all our dogs. We believe it is important you see first hand that you are dealing with reputable breeders who care about their dogs.
- We have an assortment of different lab puppies available at different times each year. Listed below are what we have available in the next few months:
- We have litters with all colours expected for the fall and winter. So ask us, or see our website for details! Please contact us in advance of the time you're looking for a companion, as we have a busy deposit list.
We aim to retire our breeding dogs by 4 years old, and we usually have opportunities for the adoption of some great older dogs. We also have some great options to foster older pups and younger adults. Check out our website or contact us for details!”
It sounds like these breeders do it all right, but I still would not buy from them. They have too many puppies for my liking - too many dogs period, indicated that they have options to foster older pups and younger adults. Kennel raised? It doesn’t say, but my hunch is yes.
Rescue groups can’t find enough foster homes – a for-profit breeder asking for a foster home puts a bad taste in my mouth.
And I wonder why they retire them so young? Are they worn out at age 4?

“Border Collie, Kelpie and Dingo cross pups for sale. Parents are excellent cattle working dogson a large cattle ranch and pups have started to show some instinct as they play with each other. Father came from the States and mother is a registered purebred. Please email with any questions. 2 males, 3 females.”
I admit that if these pups were closer, I’d be really keen on having a look, but they shouldn’t be advertised online. The drive they probably have most laypeople can’t handle, and the risk is that the ad attracts folks who don’t know much about dogs, but are intrigued by the Dingo part. There are members of society who crave social attention, and seek to possess something the Jones’ don’t have. Years ago I had clients who bought two male littermate wolf hybrids for their teenage son. Guess what? It didn't work out.

Here is another example:
“Hunting Labradors for sale
Bred for hunting, father registerable American chocolate lab -mother from hunting stock American black lab,
1st vaccinations, family friendly, raised with kids, love water and swimming, males and females, these pups need room to run, NOT city dogs, Very playful, great for family pets or working dogs.”
City folks will read the ad, and will he turn them away when they come with a checkbook? I have met working stock Labradors and they did not make great family pets. They had a one-track mind: working in the field with very low motivation for anything else.

And one more:
“Taking reservations for the next litter of Great Pyrenees pups. Ready for their new home mid Jan 2013.  Pups will be well socialized with sheep, goats, chickens, ducks and people.
Both dogs come from a pedigree of good working stock. Sire parents are reg with AKC and from Colorado. Dam works on a sheep farm.  She is hip certified. Father will be when 2 yrs old.
Great Pyrenees are very smart gentle giants who bond with their family and very laid back and easy going. They do need a fenced in area and daily exercise. These pups will make great family pets or superior livestock guardian dogs. They will be vet checked, de-wormed several time, have their first vaccination, and micro chipped.”
People reading that ad see “great family pets”, without understanding the breed's needs. I have had two clients with Great Pyrenees recently, and one told me that she wished she’d done more research, but believed the online ad, fell in love with the face, and got the pup. Both dogs, as superior
livestock-guardians, are hypersensitive to sound, and motion, and both live in a suburban area with lots of noise that perpetually overstimulates them, and they react to.
Another red flag is “that the mother is hip certified, but the father will be when 2 years old”. The father should not have been used for stud prior to being checked. Just to make it clear, he will be checked for hips, not necessarily certified.

Here are two ads for Rottweilers:
“The Rottweiler is good-natured, placid in basic disposition,very devoted, obedient, biddable and eager to work and make the Most Amazing Family Dogs
Our family has loved and owned Rottweilers for about 15 years now
We are by no means a large breeder and have no intentions of ever becoming one. We breed for Quality not Quantity Our top priority is ONLY breed dogs with excellent Pedigree's Health and fantastic Temperaments. All our dogs and puppies have beautiful Square heads and dark mahogany markings they are extremely Affectionate and their puppies are raised in our home as part of the Family This makes them extremely confident, sociable and happy with outstanding temperaments.
We welcome you to come visit our Home and meet our wonderful dogs. The Sires and Dam Hips and Elbows are OFA Excellent & Good, All are Dogs are health certified for eyes,heart, thyroid, hips and elbows.
If you are interested in a Quality puppy Whether you are looking for Show, Work or Family Companion/Soul Mate, we have laid the foundation for a well rounded, stable puppy to become everything that you are looking for.”
If I’d be looking for a Rottie, this breeder would be on the top of my list. No red flags. I like that they use the word “confident”, understanding well that confident dogs are less prone to anxiety issues. And I like that they say that they “laid the foundation” cause that is all a breeder can do. The rest is in the hands of the owner, and if he messes up, even the most carefully bred pup can develop behavioral problems. But more likely than not, these breeder will ensure that the pups are placed in the right homes.
Compare it to this one:
“Hello Everyone. I have 5 adorable Rottweiler puppies available on November 27th 3 boys and 2 girls. They have their tails, i couldnt get them done because its illegal in the province . They will have first shots and health check as well as deworming up to 8 weeks.The Parents are my Pets not breeding dogs i own both. I brought the father up from ontario with me when i moved here . The father is about 90lbs and the mother is about 85. The mother is still growing she is only 11 months as it was her first heat. Im looking for forever homes for these little guys, and would like a 200$ deposit to hold them until the 27th please contact me with any questions.”
No words. Well, not very many. I don’t think this person is malicious, just absolutely clueless and I hope no buyers are found: If s/he can’t sell the pups and has to figure out what to do with them, hopefully s/he takes measures to prevent that the female is knocked up every time she is in heat. But what are the chances. And what are the chances this person can distinguish a good home from a bad one.

For the finish an ad that should be pulled because the pups are only 4 weeks old when the breeder deems them ready. “Just got a new litter on Oct 5th, I have 10 puppies, 1 female 400$(SOLD) and 9 males 200$ They'll be ready Oct 30th. If approved to have one of my pupps, down payment of 150$ is needed. You will have the option to have the dog have his first shots or you will be able to do that yourself (contract will have to be signed if you choose that option to have the shots not done) If your interested please email for breed, etc. Thanks”
If approved? My hunch is s/he’ll approve anyone who hands over a 150 dollar deposit for a 200 dollar pup. Quite the down payment. And why doesn’t s/he advertise the breed?
As you see, one of the pups is already sold, which means that there are indeed people who hand money over to a person such as this one.

Online has become the convenient venue for all sorts of people, including Pet Stores - to my dismay I saw a Petland ad, to sell their wares.
The result is that many pups, and older dogs, with a plethora of physical and emotional problems are sold to unsuspecting people; people who look for a pet and end up with a project. We are not talking about a lemon car or scratched kitchen table when the deal goes wrong, but a living, feeling being meant to be a family member for a decade or longer, and who will suffer if denied that.
For that reason, and even though I found seemingly responsible breeders also, I am still dead-set against  dogs, any animal for that matter, advertised and sold online.
Finding individual breeders, going to dog shows and talking to people who own the breed you’re interested in, searching and researching rescue groups, visiting shelters, are the first steps of good dog ownership, and I wonder when people acquire a dog the easiest way possible, what they’ll do when life with that very same dog presents hurdles.

The 7-Day Cat Project

Last month, our friends asked us if we would house and cat sit while they were on a weeklong vacation. They are friends who are also neighbors, and who own an absolutely beautiful, enchanting woodlot a stone-throw away from our house, and we have permission to explore whenever we like. Our house sits on a measly and boring 1-acre lot, theirs on about a 100 and is surrounded by crown land. The property is, so to say, our own private off-leash hiking trail, and it was easy for us to say yes because it is so close and we’re often there anyway. In fact, I was happy that we’d have the chance to be useful and reciprocate their generosity. But being there anyway also meant that Will would be in tow – and prior to that week I had little information how she'd behave in close proximity to a kitty.

The Background:

Will never lived with a cat since we own her, almost for 10 years now. She might have had cat experience in her third foster home she left when she was 5 months old, and she occasionally sees one roaming outside.

Will knows the property and associates it with pleasure.

Will also knows our friends, and in all likelihood smelled the cats’ scent on them, and also on us whenever we come home from having dinner at their place. Although she was never inside their house or encountered the cats, I hoped that there was enough familiarity to prevent that the novel components would overwhelm her.

Will is a drama queen, but her default is shutting down, not aggressing.

She is soft-mouthed and has great bite inhibition. Although she does chase squirrels, the occasional hare and yes, also a roaming cat every so often, she does so half-heartedly, playfully, without the determination of a predator. Therefore, I didn’t expect her to zone in on the cats with the intent to kill. In addition, Will differentiates between in- and outside. Born feral and imprinted by the great outdoors, she has always been much more confident there, and cautious whenever surrounded by walls.

Will seeks information from me when she is in doubt or in conflict, and follows my prompts.

I am in tune with her and can read her like a book.

She has been exposed to many new situations throughout her life: traveling with us, moving across country, meeting new people and dogs. Although she was never inside that particular house, she’s been in the homes of other friends. So, a new experience in itself is familiar, and following me into an unknown to her building is as well.

Will trusts me explicitly, I believe because I proved to her time and again that I am trustworthy; that no matter what, I have her back and our relationship with each other won’t change. Socializing is important, but equally important, if not more so, is the relationship between dog and owner. Ideally a dog should have both: exposure to novel situations and trusting a person’s decision. It is critical, because it is impossible to socialize to all eventualities a dog could be faced with in a lifetime.

Our friends’ 2 cats are exclusively kept inside the house. One, Mandrake is very social and knows me – I always play little training games for cat treats when we visit. I anticipated that he’d appear pretty much right away. The other, Hunter, is feral-like and would probably stay out of sight the whole week.

The cats are used to a dog. They lived with a female German shepherd until she died at the ripe old age of 13 a couple of years ago. There was no animosity between the cats and their dog; they got along marvelously.

I know a lot about dogs and behavior, but nothing about cats’ idiosyncrasies.

Based on all of that, and with our friends’ consent, I decided to bring Will into the house.

This is how the 7 days unfolded.

Day 1 – A Saturday, which means that hubby Mike was able to join us. Because it was the first day we expected Will and Mandrake to encounter each other, the extra set of hands relaxed me. If need be, I could get Will out the door while Mike would scoop up Mandrake and out of harms way. Will waiting outside was a viable alternative for the whole week.

As predicted, shortly after we entered Mandrake gracefully mosied down the stairs, but instantly stopped in his stride the moment he saw us, perhaps not expecting US when he heard the door opened, and probably stunned to see Will, who he focused on; and she on him, but neither animal made a move toward the other. Will’s mouth clamped up, but her body wasn’t tense and she was continuously switching between looking at me and Mandrake, instead of visually locking on the cat only. Not a bad initial moment.

The first thing I did was clean the litter box in the upstairs bathroom, and I took the leashed Will with me. A cat’s litter box is scent-sensory overload; information in large print, and I thought it might help Will to make sense of it all. Using her nose is something she loves, and I also let her sniff the cat toys, and water and food dishes, but didn’t allow her to help herself to anything, including “food” from the litter box.

Mandrake followed in a 4-5 feet distance. I closed the bathroom door to lock him out while I cleaned to prevent that he and Will would be cramped into a small space. After we were done, Will followed me back downstairs and because she ignored the cat, I dropped the leash. So, that was about 5 minutes in. Mandrake followed the leash, sniffing the far end, so 6 feet away from the dog. I don’t know anything about cats and was surprised that he, too, was collecting intelligence through his nose, and obviously also understood that even though Will looks-wise somewhat resembled the dog he lived with, that she was a different one.

Back downstairs, Mandrake lost interest in the leash and zoned in on his food dish, meowing for more and looking at me to supply it. What a clever communicator. I complied, and also handed Will a few pieces, while repeating Mandrake’s name. My aim was that by explaining that it was “Mandrake” litter box, “Mandrake” food, and “Mandrake” treats she could have a few of, that she would learn to associate the word with the cat and feel good about both.

We ended the morning with me tossing Mandrake’s favorite treats across the kitchen and living room floors for him to pounce after, while giving Will a few for an impeccable down stay. Chasing cat treats is his favorite game, and I hoped it would alleviate anxiety he might feel because his people were gone. It was also one more opportunity to reward Will, with the goal that she’d begin to feel that not just the outside woodlot was great news, but inside the house, including the cat, was too. And it had one more benefit: With Will safely leashed, I was able to get an idea how she’d react to a cat that is animated. She didn’t try to chase, and I felt it wasn’t because she was leash-wise. I thanked her with verbal praise – and one last cat treat.

(To get a clear indication how a dog reacts to cats, the dog must see the cat in motion: running, pouncing and jumping. So, for example during a shelter assessment it is not enough to have a cat in a crate or the arms of a person. A dog who is unperturbed by that could react differently in a home where cats do cat things.)

What an awesome first day. No fletching teeth, no growls, no snaps and a brilliant kitty who was curious about Will, but at the same time cautious and keeping his distance.

But Will did have a poop as soon as we got back outside - a sign that she was stressed.

Day 2 – Sunday, and again Mike accompanied us. We told Will that we’d visit Mandrake as soon as we entered the property, and several times during the walk up to the house. Will knows the cue “find” to locate something or someone, and loves that game, and we said “Find Mandrake” to create some anticipatory happiness.

The cat showed up within seconds of us entering. Will was on leash, and we followed the routine of the previous day, except Mandrake insisted on supervising the litter box cleaning, which put dog and cat in a very close space. I let him hang with us for a little while, but then gently encouraged him out the door and closed it behind him, and thus rewarded Will for a relaxed down-stay beside me with creating space for her. As soon as I opened the door Mandrake scooted back in, seemingly not at all worried about being close to Will. He followed us down the stairs, tail high, purring and rubbing himself against me, but also strutting much closer to Will than the day before.

Back downstairs, and like the previous day, Mandrake vocally bugged me to renew his food. Will already had a clue what I was about to do, and having had a taste of yummy cat kibble the day before she followed me excitedly, with a wagging tail and open mouth smile, to the pantry. What I wanted to foster, that cat sitting was great, was taking shape.

I gave her a few pieces while we stood next to Mandrake, watching him eat. No longer than a couple of minutes later he switched his interest from food to Will and sniffed her butt - and I was again surprised to discover a cat exhibiting a behavior typical for dogs – and then proceeded to rub alongside Will’s legs and her chest, purring loudly.

I watched Will like a hawk for any changes in her body language, not at all sure if she was ready to take the relationship to the next level. Although her body stayed fluid, her mouth clamped up, which was my cue to change the situation.

Out came the cat treats. Tossing one would drive Mandrake away from her playfully and release pressure, but because the brief body-touch moments didn’t provoke an intense reaction, I mixed in a few tricks both animals knew so that Will would become increasingly more comfortable with an affection-seeking Mandrake. We shot a little video clip you can see here. I admit it is not stellar quality, but hope you'll enjoy it anyway.

Day 2 finished on a high note, but Will had another poop once outside, and excitedly danced around. Despite the treats, she was happy to leave.

Day 3 – Monday, and our first day without Mike, but I felt confident that we could swing it no problem without his extra set of eyes and hands.

Mandrake, too, was more confident and greeted us at the door the moment we walked in, seemingly knowing when we’d be arriving. Cats like routine, our friends explained before they left, and they were right. I would pay special attention to predictably being on time for the rest of the week.

Unlike the previous 2 days, the kitty ignored me and bee-lined straight for Will, rubbing against her, then sniffing her butt, then purringly weaving in and out of her legs with every step she took. I know that space infractions are an issue for Will, like they are for many herding dogs, and I kept a close eye on her body language, but she stayed fluid, mouth open and relaxed, and alternating between sniffing Mandrake’s butt and moving away from him. I dropped the leash to give her more leeway.

Again, we did the litter box first, and again I closed the door, locking Mandrake out for a couple of minutes and thereby giving Will space.

Food, treats and training games happened the same way as the day before, in the same sequence, but because Mike wasn’t there it was up to me to feed the birds outside, which required opening the garage and patio doors. I asked Will to follow me, not feeling quite comfortable enough yet to leave dog and cat unsupervised. Will complied without question, and Mandrake cooperated as well and didn’t even try to dart out the open door. That was one of my worries: that he’d read me correctly as a cat-dense human and escape. But he didn’t.

More purring, weaving and rubbing against Will for the remainder of our time there, and I was beginning to think that perhaps Mandrake needs a dog.

More excited yipping and bouncing from Will once we were back outside, but no stress poop this time. The encounters with the cat-kind were becoming less difficult for her.

Day 4 – Mandrake appears to be resource guarding. He – they (I hope that Hunter eats as well when we are not there), is a messy eater and there are kibble crumbs all around the food dish Will was eager to hoover up right after we entered - I unclip her leash now, but every attempt she made Mandrake blocked. He literally pounced on the fragment Will sought out, hovered over it but didn’t eat it. He just didn’t want her to have it, the little brat-cat. I know dominance is a word to be avoided in some circles, but situational dominance is the only explanation I can come up with for Mandrake’s behavior in that context. He was relentless, and Will let out a little growl. For the first time she told the cat to knock it off, and gave me valuable information that she couldn’t deal with the situation. I solved the problem with giving Mandrake new food, collecting the pieces myself and hand-feeding them to Will. Two content animals – and the only growl for the rest of the week.

So, feeding was what we did first on day 4, and then we cleaned the litter box. On the way down the stairs, Mandrake again weaved in and out of Will’s legs, crisscrossing in front of her, and I wondered if he was socially affectionate, or controlling; making a “my house my rules” point. If the latter is true, it indicates social dominance as well, but he was purring doing it, so I don’t know. In any case, behavior floats my boat and I was intrigued and fascinated observing Mandrake – and Will who tried to step around him. She seemed relaxed again, tolerating a bit of an obnoxious Mandrake, but I still took her outside with me when I fed the birds. She was happy to come along, sniffed where the deer had been, and tolled around to get some squirrels moving.

We ended our visit with more tricks for treats, and I taught Mandrake a new word: Pass auf, which is German for “watch it”, and was meant to alert him that another treat was about to come flying. So, he had to lose his focus on one treat, sharpen his senses, and locate another I threw out. He learned quickly.

Day 5 – Nothing new happened. Perhaps I should have titled this post “The 4-Day Cat Project”. Nothing, except Will pointed out barf hidden the folds of a blanket on the sofa I would never have found. Thanks Will – it allowed me to clean it up before it started to stink up the house.

Day 6 – Mandrake and Will are very fluid with one another now. He is given her space, and Will is super relaxed without needing to be reminded. Mandrake is still resource guarding the food fragments, but Will doesn't try anymore to snatch them up and instead waits until I collected them to give to her. They are meshing so nicely that I felt I could leave them unsupervised for a couple of minutes while feeding the birds. I was correct: peeking in the window confirmed that Will was not at all stressed, and Mandrake completely safe.

Day 7 – And our last one. I’ll miss our time with cool-dude Mannie. Will Will? I am not sure how she feels about cats now? She might envy them, though. The jumping power, the treats he gets that obviously taste better than anything she ever had before, and the fact that he has unlimited and unsupervised access to the litter box.

Dogs and Babies

I confess: I am semi-addicted to Facebook. It is my social vice. I like keeping in touch with friends, clients and colleagues worldwide, and especially love the daily dose of dog-news: links to articles and video clips without having to comb the web.

Info seems to come in trends. Sometimes there is a cluster of training advice, then the topic is health and food, and recently there were a few youtube clips in a row of kids interacting with dogs. Little kids, babies and toddlers, and not so little dogs. In one, a mastiff had a bone and an about one-year old child kept on reaching for it. In another, a Bernese mountain dog frenetically licked a, crawling into his space, baby. Obviously, in each case there was an adult nearby - filming, and equally obvious unconcerned about the baby’s safety. Nobody interfered, not even when the dog with the bone briefly stiffened.

It is not unusual that situations laypeople find adorable or funny bristles dog pros’ neck hair. We see the dog’s discomfort in his body language - and a looming incident that always leaves both baby and pooch on the losing end.

How can parents be so oblivious? Well, some dog signals are easier to understand than others. Licking, for example, is typically interpreted as the dog loving the baby and kissing it in affection, but that is not necessarily the case. Yes, the dog might like the baby generally, but incessant licking indicates that, at the moment, he’d rather have some space. Some dog trainers use the term “kiss to dismiss” to illustrate the dog’s intention: wanting distance and peace, but communicating it in a much friendlier way than growling.

Whether a dog licks or growls depends on his personality. Naturally, humans understand a growl right away and take action – not always the right one, but at least they are aware how their pooch feels and ensure the little person’s safety. Anything less clear coming from the dog is often missed. But can a layperson be expected to comprehend subtleties in canine communication? Perhaps not, and hence the common advice is to never allow dogs and children to interact unsupervised. Except, in both clips they weren’t. Grown-ups were right there, but filming instead of intercepting.

A bite can happen a flash. There was another video making the rounds recently of a Malinois snapping at another dog 5 times in 2 seconds. 2 seconds is nothing; certainly not enough time to get a child out of the way even when you’re there. For that reason, many of my colleagues recommend to never allow dog and baby in face-to-face, or face-to-body, proximity. I am reluctant to go that far. There are dogs who really do love young humans and want to interact. I met them, and lived with them, and it would be a shame to withhold that. The solution, as I see it, is for people to learn more about dogs. Especially parents, and regardless if they own a dog or not, because the fact is that dogs are part of our society and everywhere. Fortunately, it isn’t that complicated. There is a fabulous website that illustrates when a dog is uncomfortable. Locally, here in Nova Scotia, one of my wonderful colleagues, Tamara McFarland, is holding a couple of Dog & Baby workshops this spring.

Between children, dogs and adults, only the grown-ups have enough reasoning capabilities to assess a situation accurately, and take charge when needed. Whenever a dog becomes stiff and still, has a clamped mouth and/or round, white-rimmed eyes, the problem is already a big one, and a bite might be imminent. Taking action, creating space, should happen when he yawns or flicks his tongue in and out, and when he tries to avoid: turns his eyes, head or body away from the child, and yes, also when he kisses to dismiss. Frenzied licking indicates that the dog is annoyed rather than affectionate. In fact, anything fast moving on a dog puts me on alert, including a fast wagging tail, and especially when only part of it wags. When a dog seeks friendly social contact, the dog wags, not just the tail.

Parents also should remember that dog/child interactions are dynamic. Just because the pooch enjoys the baby close by today, doesn’t mean he will tomorrow. The most difficult age I find is when a child is between 1-3 years old. They are mobile, but their motor skills not yet well developed, and they are too young to comprehend space politeness. Toddlers are unpredictable and uncoordinated and dogs know this. Especially more vulnerable tiny poochies, and older ones who might be a bit arthritic, can be quite guarded of themselves. Older dogs might also need more rest, and it is up to the owner to ensure they have a refuge zone where young humans won’t disturb them. Dogs, young or old, big or small, should always be given the opportunity to retreat when they have had enough. Many dogs are naturally curious about babies and want to sniff, but feel much safer when it happens on their terms. And please keep in mind that retreating can be an effort for older and giant dogs, and so they’d rather want the baby to create the distance, and they signal that with growling, or kissing.

Even if your dog is childproof, not every dog is and not all of the time, and it is crucial that youngsters learn to be considerate; learn manners and respect for other living beings. Their family pooch perhaps tolerates being hugged, pulled or slouched on, but their friend or neighbor’s dog might object. An average 3-year-old can comprehend basic dog language, and should be involved as “trainer helper”. Handing over a Smarty each time they point out “what the doggy is saying” correctly makes learning fun for everyone. The child is rewarded for giving the dog space, and that increases the likelihood that she'll be respectful with every pooch she meets.

Parents must model appropriate behavior. One would think that’s a no-brainer, but I remember a family of 4 we once encountered while hiking where that wasn’t the case. Davie and Will ignored them as they should, and the children ignored our dogs, but dad ran his hand over Davie’s back as he passed on the narrow trail. Davie was a small Aussie, and he had to bend down and make an effort. Duh! I complemented the kids for not patting a strange dog, threw dad the evil eye, and fed Davie a few treats for not biting the hand that rudely touched her.

The babies in the videos clips weren’t hurt. The dog with the bone loosened up again and left the scene, bone between his teeth. The Berner continued licking, too amiable to aggress. Dogs that are bonded to their social group members don’t want to injure any of them, including children, and try everything to avoid a bite. All adults need to do is watch and listen, and help the dog out when he feels overwhelmed. Not much effort for a huge payoff: a child not ending up in emergency, injured and traumatized, and a once beloved family companion not ending up at the receiving end of the euthanasia needle.





Proper Pooch Potty Training Tips

Spring is the natural season when females of any species have youngins on their minds, and because nowadays most females of the human kind do not procreate each year anew, many acquire an animal baby in stead. It is the primal, subconscious longing for renewal. A new pooch can satisfy that need and make the female content - temporarily, until baby Rover piddles in unwanted places. Hygienic humans dislike nothing more than dogs that potty on the rug. Growling maybe, but the fact is that for many people the failure to house train is a deal breaker.

The good news is that dogs are clean also, and rather not pee and poop where they live. The bad news is that what living space is defined as, is not so obvious to dogs.

The distinction between inside and out is a no-brainer for a person. The dog only knows where he sleeps and eats, and considers all other areas as potential voiding places. He has no idea that all 2500 square feet of your home, minus the itty-bitty water closet room, is regarded urine-free zone by you. You have to teach him that.

Back to the good news, teaching it is easy if you do it right from the start. And by the way, below tips are not just for the wee pups, but work with dogs any age.

Take your pup out often; after each nap and playtime, after he eats or drinks, whenever he sniffs, seems restless or scratches the floor. The major mistake owners make at that point is to let the pooch in the yard on his own. Everything fascinates and distracts a puppy, and even an older dog in a new environment: sounds, smells, birds and butterflies. A bumbling bee can sidetrack him from the task at paw, and when he marches back into the house his bladder is still full. With the environmental stimuli gone, and his life boring again, he remembers and promptly empties its contents on the carpet. And because it feels good and he gets your attention, potty in the house is doubly reinforced.

Taking the pup out on a leash, and withholding all attention, allows you to control his outside fun. As soon as he’s voided, unclip him and play, or let him investigate, and you are teaching him that business comes first, and the faster he does it, the sooner the good times begin.

The second big mistake people make is failure to clean an accident up to the satisfaction of the dog’s nose. Any residual odor, and remember that even the dullest dog’s sense of smell is much better than yours, is like a Ladies sign for you in a restaurant: the socially acceptable place to eliminate. It attracts and invites her to pee, and she might go even if she doesn’t really have to yet, like we might passing the washroom on the way to the bar – “since I’m here I might as well…”

Another thing with residual smell is that its fading entices the dog to freshen it up, so that she won’t forget where the designated “inside” pee place is. That explains why you can have a few days, even a couple of weeks, accident free and then find a puddle again.

There are fantastic enzymatic cleaners available that get the stink out, but in addition use all accident spots and play with your dog, or feed her there; snuggle or nap. That way you add extra clarification that that particular area is also for living, not eliminating.

Difficult to potty train dogs should always get a veterinary check to ensure that there are no physical causes. Aside from that, dogs have accidents because they are stressed, learned to get attention that way, don’t know any better, or really have to go and nobody is there to take them out.

Delays in house training can happen if the pup’s been trained on paper, or was forced to live in a “dirty” environment; forced to pee and crap in her crate, for example. Be patient and remember that someone, maybe the breeder, has imprinted your pup during her impressionable first few weeks of life to pee IN THE HOUSE. Moving the paper incrementally closer and closer to the door, and then outside, can speed things up.

Potty training without tension and punishments is crucial, cause dogs that are stressed, anxious, or confused are even more likely to void inappropriately. Your frustration and anger might be understandable, but is counterproductive, cause if your dog learns that peeing when you are close by, or she’s on the leash, is not safe, she’ll try her best not to do it. That spoils a future “quickly get it done with” in pouring rain or when you’re rushed leaving for work.

That was the case with two of our foster dogs who likely were punished for an accident at one point, with the lasting effect that they refused to void in the vicinity of a human. One was a male Newf, and believe me, big Newf – big accidents; the other a female heeler cross who didn’t pee for two days; didn’t have an accident. It beats me where she stored it all. Kailey eventually did chance it on the leash outside; with the Newf it took me 2 ½ hours to create a safe association between urinating and humans. I sat in a lawn chair reading a book, Balou, who had a full bladder cause he drank a lot after a long walk, on a six-foot leash beside me. Eventually he had no choice but to pee, for which he got cuddled, and praised and was allowed back into the house where he wanted to be.

That’s the cool thing about humans. We have the more convoluted frontal lobe and can find brainy and positive solutions for almost any problem behavior. Speaking of, I will be away for a couple of weeks – PD in Calgary; conferencing with other brainy dog experts, and having a little vacation. So, no new posts till the middle of June, and then, my dear readers, I want to chat about the really reliable recall – now that summer and hiking season is approaching.

Begging Allowed

Every dog I ever met loves people food. Even the ones that already get home-cooked food, like our two, still want what hubby Mike and I have.

Imagine mouthwatering cooking aromas permeating the living space every day. Imagine having a dog’s superb sense of smell, much better than yours. And then imagine that all you ever get is a bowl of kibble once a day.

Dogs want people food cause people food is more appealing to the nose and taste buds, and if you think that dogs don’t taste, you should watch Will spit out vegetables she detests – broccoli, carrots, tomatoes. She loves green beans.

People food smells and tastes better than kibble, but that is only one reason why dogs try to manipulate us in parting with some of Sunday’s roast.

Dogs understand that sharing food is a sign of social acceptance and inclusion, and that, next to basic physical needs and emotional safety, is most important for them.

Human rituals almost always include eating together, because it creates kinship, and kin lends a helping hand if need be, and that enhances survival during hard times. Wolves feast together on killed prey. The whole purpose of a social group is to be strong in numbers. Sharing resources guarantees both the health of the individual and the pack.

Bonded dogs share toys, a water dish, interesting sniffing spots and even food if there is enough of it. Sharing a resource with a subordinate is a sign of high status, and the attempt to manipulate someone into sharing a possession is an act in submission.

Ergo, begging for table scraps is not challenging for alpha status, but a subordinate understanding that he does not control the food, and asking the one who does to share.

When I cook dinner, I invite my dogs to join me in the kitchen. Actually, I put it on command – say “lets cook”, thereby ordering them to join me. I could also practice the “come” command, or “lets-go” and have them follow me.

And then they beg according to the rules I laid out for them. After all, I’m the boss. And the rules are:

Don’t stare at the food, but connect to me with prolonged, soft eye contact;

Don’t corral me, but keep at least a five feet distance;

Don’t bark, whine, pace or tense, but remain in a relaxed down-stay;

Take the tidbits I’m giving you softly and don’t fight over food I am tossing.

From my point of view, and I bet my dogs’ as well, begging means:

Dog is showing interest in what I am doing;

Dog is connected to me and attentive;

Dog is motivated by something I have control over.

Those are key ingredients for many behaviors I want in day-to-day life. Attention, connection and motivation I need for a reliable recall, obedience around distractions, and self-restraint in anticipation of a reward. Why wouldn’t I take every opportunity to practice that, and especially take advantage of opportunities that allow me to combine domestic duties with training.

I cook, or eat, several times per day – and my dogs practice self-control around a high valued resource several times per day. They also practice to tolerate each other’s presence, and that of an occasional canine guest, around stuff they really want. And I don’t have to scrape away extra time out of my busy schedule to train manners in staged, artificially orchestrated situations.

If your dog joins you in the kitchen, don’t punish him for offering attention and then demand it two hours later in the training class.

By permitting my “girls” to be in proximity when I cook or eat, I communicate that we belong together. So, it’s not really begging, but including - communion building. And because I control the snacks, I score extra leadership points.

People, Questions and the Dog Expo

I absolutely love to go to people’s homes and work with their dogs. I always liked it more than instructing group classes and am lucky, and deeply grateful, that I get to do only what I love these days.

The primary reason why I love it so much is cause I get to study many dogs in their natural setting, and I get a chance to make a dog feel better where he lives.

The other reason is that I meet many fantastic, and interesting people. Almost every one of my clients I like on a personal level. I typically don’t meet the jerks that mistreat their dogs. I guess, someone who hires me is already non-aggressive by nature, even if he or she used punitive methods in the past because a “professional” advised to do so.

I don’t envy today’s lay-dog-owners, because there is so much conflicting information out there that leaves many utterly confused. Not surprising that I am asked many questions during a consultation, which I welcome, cause it gives me a chance to add clarity. No question is a stupid one is also true regarding dog behavior.

Yesterday, a mother of two young children asked about the best way to approach a strange dog, after asking the owner’s permission – with an open hand, or made into a fist.

Here is the answer I gave:

Although it is understandable that children want to pat a dog, I would rather discourage, than encourage it. Only if the dog gives clear signals that he wants nothing more than to say hello, and has enough self-control to remain calm, should the child be permitted to approach. In other words, don’t ask the owner; ask the dog. Many owners don’t read a dog’s subtle discomfort signals very well, and although the dog might not bite, he might also not like to be touched by strangers very much.

A dog who loves children will say so with a lowered body, open and neutral mouth, soft eyes, fluid body and swooshingly wagging tail – not fast wagging, and not still. And he will reliably stay soft and fluid when children touch and pet and investigate. With those dogs, it doesn’t matter if the child is approaching with an open or closed hand. A dog who loves kids won’t bite.

For all dogs who don’t fall into that category, who are a bit concerned or conflicted about little hands they don’t know touching, the answer is: no petting allowed. Mothers and fathers, don’t take it personally when a dog does not share your feelings for your little darling. He is not a bad dog, or necessarily aggressive. He just wants his space respected by strangers. Like you do. I mean, how would you feel if a stranger were to ask to hug your child because she is so cute!

So hands-off, unless the dog signals unambiguously that he really wants the attention and feels very comfortable with it.

If you have a question, see me at the upcoming Dog Expo at the Halifax Forum on Feb. 21 (info at www.gpac.ca/content/node/202). As long as it has to do with dogs, you’ll get an answer – or at least an expert opinion based on what I learned and experienced over the last 15 or so years.

I will also have a few Dump Dog copies for sale, which I’ll sign for you.

Hope to see you there.